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  Wood Deck in a Weekend
By Joseph Truini

This spacious 12x16-ft. sundeck is built entirely out of pressure-treated southern yellow pine, which is extremely resistant to decay and termites. For a more upscale look, consider using redwood or cedar. Both species are naturally resistant to rot and wood-munching bugs.

While it may not seem possible, this entire deck was built in just two days. Ordinarily, it takes two or three days just to dig the postholes and pour the concrete footings. But this deck didn't require digging a single hole — because it was built on a floating foundation made of Dek-Block precast concrete pier blocks.

The pyramid-shaped blocks are set directly on the ground in evenly spaced rows. Each block weighs about 45 pounds and has molded into its top surface two 1 1/2-in.-wide slots and a 3 1/2-in.-sq. recessed socket. The slots accept a 2-by floor joist, while the socket supports a 4x4 post. Since our building site was relatively level, no posts were needed; the 2x6 floor joists were set directly into the slots. (For more information on Dek-Blocks, contact DekBrands, Box 14804, Minneapolis, MN 55414; 800/664-2705; www.deckplans.com.)

Set the Pier Blocks
The floating foundation is comprised of six rows of concrete pier blocks. There are five blocks in each row. Begin by setting the two corner blocks alongside the house, spacing them 14 ft. apart. The 16-ft.-long deck boards will extend 12 in. beyond the blocks on each end, effectively hiding the floating foundation from view.

Set a long 2x6 in the slots of the first two pier blocks. Use a 4-ft. level to check the board for level. If necessary, dig a little dirt out from beneath the block on the high end to level up the 2x6. Place three intermediate pier blocks between the two corner blocks, spacing them equally. Again, use a long 2x6 to see if they're level with the two corner blocks.

Next, set the two corner pier blocks for the row of blocks farthest from the house. Place a 2x6 between an outside corner block and one of the blocks you set earlier near the house. Shift the outside corner as needed until the joist is perfectly square with the house. Then, check to see if the joist is level. If the outside corner is high, dig out a little dirt. If it's low by only a couple of inches, add a layer of crushed stone beneath the block. If you need to raise the joist more than a few inches, cut a 4x4 post to fit into the block's recessed socket.

Install the four intermediate pier blocks between the corner and the house. Repeat this process for the row of blocks on the other side of the foundation. Now set the remaining intermediate pier blocks in the center of the deck to complete the foundation.

   
       
 
       
  Build the Frame
The understructure frame of the deck is built of pressure-treated 2x6 joists, which run parallel to the house. Set each joist into a slot in the blocks. Check the joists for level, making slight adjustments by slipping thin wood shims between the 2x6 and block. Next, screw a 2x6 band joist across the ends of the floor joists on both sides of the deck. Then cut five outriggers, which are 12-in.-long pieces of 2x6, and screw them to the joist farthest from the house. Align one outrigger with each row of pier blocks. Then attach the final band joist across the outriggers at the outer end of the deck. The outriggers allow the decking to extend past the pier blocks so the foundation won't be visible.

Before laying down the decking, you must check to see if the floor frame is square. Measure the two opposing diagonals — from corner to corner — of the deck frame. When the two dimensions are equal, the frame is square. If necessary, move the joists or pier blocks until the frame is square.
   
       
 
       
  Lay the Decking
For this project, pressure-treated 2x6s were used for the decking. But, you could use 2x4s or a combination of 2x4s and 2x6s in an alternating pattern. Begin by laying all the deck boards across the floor joists. If the boards are wet, butt them tightly together. As they dry out and shrink, gaps will appear between each board. If the decking is dry, leave a 1/4-in. gap between the boards.

Neatly align the ends of all the boards along the house, leaving a 1 in. space between the decking and the siding. Then, using a cordless drill/driver or electric drill, fasten the deck boards to the joists with 3-in. galvanized decking screws. Note that it'll be much easier to drive in the screws if you first bore 3/32-in. diameter pilot holes.

After fastening the last deck board, snap a chalk line across the outer ends of the boards and trim them straight with a circular saw. Snap the line so that the decking overhangs the band joist by 1/4 to 1/2 in. Finally, let the deck boards dry out for a couple of weeks, then apply a coat of exterior-grade stain or a clear wood preservative.
   
       
 
       
 

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